Rishi Sunak is wearing suits that are too short because he is hostage to Noughties menswear trends, a leading men’s fashion guru has said.
Derek Guy – who is based in California and writes the Die, Workwear fashion blog – said the Prime Minister was ‘trend aware’ but ‘just a little behind the times’.
However, he scotched conspiracy theories the 5ft-6in politician opts for short trousers to make himself look taller, saying it was purely a matter of ‘fashion’.
In a forensic analysis of Mr Sunak’s fashion choices for his 460,000 Twitter followers, Mr Guy said: ‘Baffling to me how the wealthiest UK prime minister in history could live just steps away from Savile Row, the single greatest concentration of skilled bespoke tailors, and end up paying $2k for a MTM suit with sleeves and trousers 2-4′ too short.’
The fashion expert picked up on claims by his followers that Mr Sunak was trying to mask his short stature, or opting for children’s sizes to ‘dodge VAT’.
Rishi Sunak (seen in Whitehall) has become known for his ankle-skimming trousers and jackets with sleeves that appear too short
Mr Sunak reveals his short trousers while speaking on Zoom to Gordon Ramsay during the pandemic
Mr Guy said he was ‘baffled’ by Mr Sunak’s fashion crimes when he lives so close to Savile Row
He continued: ‘Lots of conspiracy theories on why Sunak wears such short trousers and sleeves, but my theory is simple…
‘Sunak is a vaguely trend-aware guy, but just a little behind the times. He wears Palm Angels slides, Common Projects sneakers, slim-fit chinos, etc.
‘I don’t think he has a grand theory for how short sleeves and pants make him look taller.
‘He’s simply accustomed to wearing trendy things and so, he wears early 2000s menswear trends.
‘It is not unusual to see wealthy guys wear such shrunken suits. In fact, this is the dominant silhouette if you visit the downtown district of any major city.
‘Lots of guys wearing tight, cropped pants, short jackets, bad sleeves . . . men of all sorts of builds. It’s the fashion.’
Mr Guy, who has written for Esquire and the Financial Times, later suggested Mr Sunak had been eclipsed in the fashion stakes by US President Joe Biden, whose ‘ready to wear’ suits fitted better despite probably being far cheaper.
‘It would be better if he just got a longer coat and then dropped the buttoning point and then had slightly fuller trousers. I mean, he lives in London. It would be very easy for him to get a really good suit,’ he told Times Radio.
‘Ironically, I think this sort of outfit makes a man look very middle-aged, as it’s a 20-year-old trend and young people are wearing baggier clothes.’
Mr Guy’s assessment of the Tory leader contrasted markedly with the praise he recently lavished on King Felipe of Spain at the Wimbledon final.
Mr Sunak showing off a more casual ensemble outside Downing Street last year
Mr Guy scotched conspiracy theories the 5ft-6in politician opts for short trousers to make himself look taller, saying it was purely a matter of ‘fashion’
The monarch, who watched his countryman Carlos Alcaraz come through a five-set thriller with Novak Djokovic on Centre Court, was spotted wearing a light grey suit jacket over a white checked shirt, paired with black tailored trousers and a navy and white patterned tie.
Clearly a fan of the Spanish king’s collection of suits, Mr Guy said the 55-year-old royal looked ‘great’ and that it was ‘very rare to see this level of tailoring nowadays, even on the wealthy’.
He wrote: ‘King Felipe consistently looks great, and it seems that all of his suits are cut by the same tailor.
‘Some basic points: 1. Collar always hugs the neck 2. No pulling anywhere. Things hang cleanly 3. Lapels end about halfway from collar to shoulder bone (nice proportion).’
A rolling lapel also helps Felipe’s look while slight curvature to a jacket’s lapel suggests ‘very fine tailoring’, Mr Guy said.
Mr Guy’s assessment of the Tory leader contrasted markedly with the praise he recently lavished on King Felipe of Spain at the Wimbledon final
He also praised his jacket ‘quarters’, referring to how the front of a jacket, below the buttons, sits, saying the King’s quarters ‘sweep away, creating a more dynamic line.’
Mr Sunak has previously won plaudits for his fashion sense, with stylists praising it as a notable improvement on his scruffy predecessor, Boris Johnson.
Celebrity stylist Lucas Armitage told FEMAIL: ‘Politicians are not known for possessing the greatest wardrobes, yes Boris I’m looking at you, yet Rishi is always extremely well presented.’
Mr Armitage said the chancellor’s wife Akshata Murthy, daughter of one of India’s richest men, could be behind his stylish looks.
Ms Murthy runs a fashion label and can no doubt offer advice to the MP about his sense of style and tailoring.
Mr Armitage said the key to Mr Sunak’s look appears to be ‘clever tricks’ employed by expensive tailors.
The chancellor regularly wears a dark navy suit, which comes from upmarket tailor Henry Herbert, whose services start at a whopping £1,295.
Mr Guy said the quality of the monarch’s tailoring was rare ‘even among the wealthy’
The pieces, which are described online as ‘true to the highest standards of traditional Savile Row tailoring’, are crafted using fabrics sourced from mills in England and Scotland.
Celebrity stylist Rochelle White agreed, revealing: ‘I feel that Rishi’s style for short trousers is a mix of comfort and style.
‘I think he is very aware of his body and what works well for him and builds that into his look.
‘The short trousers are practical for everyday wear and more comfortable. They help to elongate his legs and body.’